Eyeliner is one of the most important products to have in your makeup bag because it can create amazing eye definition without much time or effort. However, before you begin sweeping and sculpting your lines there is one golden rule you need to know – your eyeliner style should always be proportional to your eye shape. It’s important to get this right because if you select the wrong style, it can accentuate under eye bags, make eyes appear smaller than they are and overpower your entire makeup look.
EYE SHAPE Eyeliner should be used to enhance your natural eye shape and the amount to use should always be proportional to your eye shape. For example, if your eyes are close together or small, avoid lining the entire lash line (inner to outer corners of your eye). Instead, concentrate the color on the outer corners. If your eyes are widely spaced, focus the eyeliner towards the inner half of the eye. This avoids elongating your eye, which will make them appear even further apart.
• Hooded Eyes - The biggest issue with hooded eyes is that they sometimes give eyes a heavy, sunken or tired look. To combat this, try an all-over eyeliner look — a soft daytime smoky eye, blending the smudged liner up above the crease. Keep the waterline clear to avoid looking heavy handed underneath the eye.
• Almond Eyes – This classic shape suits most styles especially a classic cat-eye or two-line flick with a colorful pop. Just make sure you balance whatever style you apply with the rest of your makeup.
• Downturned Eyes – The regular cat eye can exaggerate these eye shapes. This is because the natural line of the eyes slopes downwards and unless the flick is made extra high up, the feline look can have a reverse effect. Instead, try a smudgy, smoky reverse cat eye. It will automatically draw the eyes up and out, instead of down and out.
• Round Eyes – Instead of creating the typical “cute” curved line that follows the eye shape, try a more edgy look. Line directly up from the edge of the top lash line to the crease and then halfway across the crease, making a square tip. Then, using a small brush, smudge the pigment along the top lash line and slightly over the crease to soften the look. This will create something bolder almost fierce because round eyes can handle it.
STYLE OPTIONS While punk rock or winged eyeliner looks amazing on runways and in magazines, they are not always practical to wear on the street. With that said, it’s always nice to have a few options that you can wear in the street, day or night and on different occasions. We have listed a few popular styles to get you started. Always start light. You can always go back over the area to increase intensity.
• Classic Line – Start at the inner corner and drag your eyeliner across the lash line to the outer corner. This technique of defining the lower lash line is a classic style that women have applied for decades.
• Smudged – First line your eyes then diffuse the line with either a sponge tip or a smudge brush using short strokes incrementally as you work your way across the line. This makes the line a little more “smoked” and less “lined”.
• Inner Rimmed - Gently pull the lower lid down with your finger for better access to the waterline then sweep eyeliner back and forth along it until no spaces remain. Blink your lids together to get the product on the upper waterline or look down and lift your upper lid to rim the upper waterline. This option makes eyes look much more intense and piercing. Also, lining the inner rims of your eyes with a flesh toned shade creates a fresh bright eyed effect. Many use white eyeliner to achieve this but it doesn’t suit everyone.
• Winged or Cat Eye – The angular wing or cat eye shape varies depending on eye shape. Generally, the eyeliner begins thin at the inner corner near the tear duct and gets thicker towards the outer corner. If you want to make your eyes look wider, make the line above your lashes thicker at the center. For longer looking eyes, make the line thin all the way across. There are two general wing shapes: curvy wings are best for making eyes look longer (because they extend the lash line) and triangular wings are best if you want to make your eyes look bigger. It’s best to always apply your eyeliner in thin strokes and widen as desired.
• Dotted or Tightlining –This option makes it appear like you have more lashes than you really do. It also defines the line without anyone knowing you’re defining it. Take your eyeliner (liquid, pencil or shadow) and dot (stamp) in between the lashes all the way across the lash line. If you don’t want to use eyeliner, try dipping a stiff angled eyeliner brush into a matte black eye shadow. Tap it a few times to get rid of the excess product, then “stamp” it along the lash line. Work it well in between the lashes, so no skin peeks through.
• Eyeshadow Liner – This works best if your eyeliner has a creamy formula. Start from inner corner, line along the lash line to outer edge, then back across the crease. Once you have created your desired shape, soften it with a brush and blend color all over the lid area.