Most makeup tutorials are aimed at women of all races, but the one-size-fits-all approach doesn't always work. When it comes to applying makeup for Asian features, most traditional rules around makeup don’t apply because no two Asian women are alike, and no two Asian faces are alike. The term 'Asian' applies to a wide variety of cultures: Chinese, Korean, Japanese, Indian, Vietnamese — the list goes on. And the makeup that works for one woman might not work for her sister. We have so many variations in skin tone, eye shape, and bone structure. This is why it is so important to learn the makeup basics.
With the proper knowledge and the correct products, you can enhance Asian features. We have provided some quick makeup tips to get you started but don’t get discouraged if our suggestions don’t work out immediately. Remember, it’s just makeup and you can always remove it and start again.
First apply a face primer designed for combination skin like PRIMUS™ DUAL CONTROL PRIMER that controls oil build up and shine. After your primer is completely dry, apply a lightweight foundation designed for combination skin like our made to order STUDIO 6 SHEER MATTE FOUNDATION. For more information on our custom cosmetics, download our custom color app MY SKIN TONE MATRIX.
Contour and shading is an essential step to bring out Asian bone structure. Highlight center of the nose, inner corners of eyes and along tops of cheekbones. Blend shading well to avoid any harsh lines. If you have a wide face, apply the blush higher up on the cheek bone. Do not apply it on the apple of your cheeks. For those with a narrow face, apply the blush on the apples and sweep back slightly.
Apply an eye primer especially if you have oily monolids. This will ensure your eye makeup stays in place.
Asian eyes are less about adding dimension to the outer crease, and more about creating an even, ombré effect from your lash line toward your brow. For petite shaped eyes use smaller brushes to prevent creating a muddy look. First, apply a soft neutral shadow all over the lid right up to your brow bone. Then, apply a medium brown shade to your lid, rounding the color where your crease would be. Blend the two colors together with a blending brush for a seamless look to create a faux crease. If you want more socket definition, apply a darker shadow to the eye socket line (see diagram) to enhance the crease line. Don’t forget to clean up shadow fallout and conceal dark areas with our made to order MATRIX UNDER EYE CONCEALER.
LINE YOUR EYES
The trick is to keep your eyes open and tilt your head back a bit when you’re applying eyeliner. This will allow you to see exactly where your eyeliner is being placed. A slight cat-eye will help to open up your eyes but skip the wing when you’re applying eyeliner and create one instead by blending the ends upward. In other words, use one end of an eyeliner smudge brush to apply your gel or cream liner, and then use the other to smoke it out and blend out the ends into a wing shape. For night, you can make the wing sharper to add more drama. Avoid closing up your eyes with too much liner at your waterline. A nude liner is best on the waterline with subtle liner underneath the lash line.
First, use an eyelash curler to curl your lashes. Then, apply a few coats of mascara for an instant lash-lift effect. For more drama, add a few individual false lashes to the outer corners of the eyes.
Be careful not to use very dark pencils as they are too strong for delicate Asian features. We recommend medium brown shades. Always blend brow product properly with a brow brush and set brow hairs in place.
Define lips by choosing suitable colors to balance out lip size. Dark colors will make lips appear smaller and light colors will appear more plump.