While sharp cheekbones and chiseled faces look great on runways and in glossy editorial, this kind of contouring doesn’t really translate well when walking down the street or sitting at work. Too much bronzer, highlighting, and hours of complicated blending can end up looking overdone and unnatural.
It's important to remember that there is no makeup rule that makes sculpting areas of your face mandatory. However, sometimes the occasion does call for a little more enhancement of a favorite feature or adding a product to lift the complexion to create a more natural healthy looking glow. Did you know that this can be easily achieved without having to use complicated amounts of contouring products?
COLORLESS CONTOUR Luminous skin is everything at the moment so why spend hours smudging multiple products over your skin? Colorless contour is a makeup technique that concentrates on the natural shadows of the face and defines features using minimal effort. The aim is to focus on highlighting in complementary shades that mimic the skin instead of adding dark contour shades. This works best when very little foundation or concealer is used because colorless contour is more of a light and shadow thing, not a coverage thing. If you need to use foundation and concealer, make sure the shades accurately match your skin tone to achieve almost undetectable coverage. You can get shades made just for you by simply downloading MY SKIN TONE MATRIX via iTunes.
FOLLOW YOUR SKIN TONE Let nature guide you. Anything that stands out too much against skin like apricot, lemon, lime or lilac will look unnatural even after hours of blending. This is why these colors are mainly used by professionals for runways and editorial where the overall look of the skin is deliberately imagined, not real. To avoid having blotchy looking skin, stick with neutral colors reminiscent of your natural skin tone. For example, if you’re fair, stick with lighter shades, and if you’re darker, use darker ones. Stay away from anything too red or orange because even those with incredibly tanned skin don’t suit it.
EMBRACE NATURAL SHINE With a colorless contour look, it’s important to bring light back into your face without getting carried away. Instead of blotting away shine, contrast a fresh face with strategically uncovered areas of shine, keeping it concentrated on the top half of the face where light naturally hits the skin. If you’re worried about looking too shiny we would recommend before a face primer like PRIMUS™ DUAL CONTROL PRIMER before any makeup application. This primer combats excess oil build up on the skin’s surface and reduces shine.
SCULPT YOUR EYES We sometimes add too many products when we can achieve so much more by simply applying fewer products more strategically. Try working with the natural shadows around your eyes and restrain from covering them up with concealer. Try keeping the shadows to create a natural smudge eyeliner look. Where you might normally blend your shadow into the crease, try dabbing highlighter at the center of your lower lid. The light will hit here, drawing the attention to the high point of your eye. Another way to bring high points forward is by highlighting the inner corners of your eyes, graduating to the area underneath your eyes. For a more wide awake look push your brows up by brushing upwards and outwards through the arches and setting with brow gel.
HIGHLIGHT CHEEKS Today's contour trend is no longer about carving a line into the hollows of your cheekbones with heavy bronzer. Instead bring out your cheekbones by adding light to them along the highest point of your cheekbone with a cream shimmer or clear highlighter gel. By moving the highlighter up towards your temple you will eliminate the need to create a contrasting darker area with bronzer.
FACE SHAPE Not all of the rules of highlighting and contouring are universal. This is why it’s important to know your face shape before trying any contouring. If you have a round face, contouring under your cheekbones can make it appear smaller. But if you have a narrow face, it could make it look even longer so you will need to shade along the top of the forehead and a bit on the chin. This technique softens angular features and creates a more rounded effect.